So, I had my eye on a proper smoker for about a year, having decided on the kind I wanted at Magnum Custom Trailer.  The one I wanted went on sale last week, and I got it and hauled it home.

I thought my first foray into real wood smoking would be something easy, like ribs.  Alas, Richardson Farms had no ribs on Saturday, but they did have one very large brisket.  Done.

Having been told that grass fed beef would be too lean for the smoker, I was determined to try it anyway, wanting to stay away from feedlot beef, hormones and antibiotics.  This brisket had a fair amount of fat on the thick end.   I contemplated cutting it in half, and saving the leaner, thinner end for oven braising, but decided to just smoke the whole thing.

I made a spice rub with sea salt, pepper, onion powder and garlic powder, and massaged it liberally into the brisket.

 I started the fire first thing in the morning, and I must say, there is little more satisfying that a morning fire.  I wanted to make my coffee over it and cook breakfast over it, but I didn’t.  I just waited until the smoker side was nearing 200 degrees, and I put the brisket in.

Controlling the temperature was a little challenging, first too hot, then too cool.  I waited too late to put more wood on a couple of times, and had to re-stoke the fire.  Over the course of the day, the temperature ranged between 180 and 220, and I got more consistent as the day went on.

I sampled the thin end after about 6 hours, and it was tasty, with a good smoke ring, albeit a little lean.  After about 8 hours, I decided to wrap the brisket in foil, so that it wouldn’t get any smokier, and I put a meat thermometer into the thick end with the goal of bringing it to about 185.  After 11 hours in the smoker, and an internal temperature of 180, I decided to pulled the brisket out.  I let it rest before starting to slice the thick end.

The end result was delicious – tender, juicy smokey.  The thin, lean end was still lean and less juicy, but the flavor was great.  I couldn’t be happier with my first brisket on the new smoker.  Armed with lots of lessons from the day, I look forward to my next smoking adventure.

January Tomato Plant

When I was watering this plant today, I noticed that there were two other volunteers it the same Earthbox.  In the empty pot next to it, there were 4 or 5 more, and another in the raised bed on the driveway-the bed that housed the heaviest producers last Spring.  It occurred to me that if conditions were good enough that all of these plants were coming up on their own, perhaps, I’d just help them along.  So, with cold weather expected tonight, I dug several of them up, planted them in pots, and brought them indoors.

My little volunteer army

They were all growing in awkward spots, so I’m going to put them into the raised bed on Thursday, ahead of a couple weeks of warmer weather.  I also decided, since seeds are so cheap, to experiment and sow some seeds directly into the garden.  Perhaps all of our freezes are done, perhaps not,  I can always cover the plants.  Nothing to lose, really.

In a more traditional seed starting manner, I have 5 or 6 varieties of tomatoes in a seed starting tray in the kitchen, under a light.

Seed Starting Tray

I’m tempted to build a bed solely for experiments and just toss a handful of various seeds into it, and see if each variety waited to germinate when the weather was appropriate.  I may do this too.  But, I have to save room for the corn experiment to come.  You all know how I love to grow corn.

Happy Gardening!  I’ll report back.

Dorsey Barger and Susan Hausman bought, Hausbar Farms  their East Austin property several years ago, a run down plot of land in East Austin, on which sat decrepit buildings being utilized as crack houses. Through their hard work and care, the property is now their home, a working sustainable farm, and a burgeoning business.  The farm in also inhabited by my two favorite donkeys, a goat or two, rabbits and chickens.

The focus of this post is the chickens.   I learned a couple of weeks ago that Hausbar had started making their chickens available for sale at Boggy Creek Farm.  I had already been buying a chicken a week, from the farmer’s market, which I typically  roast on Sunday night.  One chicken provides several meals throughout the week.

In my ongoing efforts to evolve as an aware and  compassionate eater, I accepted an invitation from my friend Cecilia to visit Hausbar Farms,  on a day that they would be slaughtering chickens. (Also attending was my new friend Mike Sutter. )   In my mind, I  danced around the word “slaughtering”, but have come to accept that this is the appropriate term.  I don’t believe that you have to kill your own food to appreciate it, but I have felt for some time, that in order to truly honor the food that I eat, I should at least understand how it comes to transition from living farm animal, to sustenance for me.  I did not relish the idea, but hoped that it would be a fulfilling experience.

Hausbar has both laying hens and meat birds, which is fairly self explanatory.  The meat birds are heritage chicken breeds raised for meat, the laying hens are for eggs.   The chickens are purchased just hatched, before they have eaten any food.  Hausbar feeds them organic feed, and allows them to roam around and forage for worms, bugs and whatever else chickens forage for.  They lead happy lives, filled with sunshine and shenanigans, as do the other farm animals.  (A stark contrast to commercially raised chickens who never see the light of day and routinely have their beaks removed so they can’t harm one another in close confinement.)

The farm employs a beloved woman named Lola, who tends to the chickens on a daily basis, feeding them, collecting eggs, and nursing them back to health when problems arise.  One of the chickens on this day, had lived in Lola’s home while she treated its injured foot, so that the other chickens did not bully it.  It seemed fitting, that Lola, the person the chickens are used to and comfortable with, would carry out the final procedure.  I have edited, deleted and added to this part for several days now, partly wanting to share the entire experience, partly not wanting to be too macabre with pictures and partly wanting to keep it to myself and those who were there with me.

The chickens come to their end in the most peaceful, humane, quiet, quick,  non-violent and respectful manner that I could ever imagine.  And that’s all I will write about that.

They are then placed into scalding water to loosen their feathers, then into a device I can only think to call a chicken spinner, to de-feather them.

Once featherless, Lola begins the task of removing the organs.  By this point in the day, I felt like I had seen what I had come to witness, so I was utterly surprised at the incredible science lessons to come next.  Dorsey began explaining the anatomy of the chicken with so much excitement, that I immediately got excited too.   The first chicken contained one of the most amazing things I’ve ever seen – its reproductive tract, filled with yolks, awaiting their turn in the ovaduct, wherein they form their shell.  This chicken had an unlaid egg, fully formed at the end of its ovaduct, as well.  Underneath those big yolks, were smaller to tiny little yolks all waiting their turn to travel through the ovaduct.  It was amazing.

Would be eggs

As Lola continued cleaning the birds, Dorsey explained that every part of the bird (with exception of the beak and spleen) is either used by them, or sold to a local restaurant.  Kome, a new Japanese restaurant in town takes the entire ovaduct for a dish they serve on their menu.  We watched as the liver was removed, then how the gizzard was cleaned of its rocks. (Chickens eat rocks which aid in the digestion of their food, as they do not have a stomach.)  Lola carefully cleaned the intestines, in a manner passed down to her by generations of Mexican heritage, emptying them of their contents, thoroughly rinsing with water, then further  cleaning them with lime juice and salt.

As a treat for the guests, Dorsey asked Lola to prepare the intestines, which she did simply by cooking in a skillet.

Once crisp and ready to eat, we each took a turn taking a bite.  They tasted like chicken, with hints of salt and lime and with a texture not unlike calamari.  Susan then brought out beers for us, and the afternoon quickly evolved in to a celebration.  We were celebrating the amazing chicken, which we had come to revere and respect, having witnessed what we had.   It felt like such an honor to eat this chicken.   And I feel so grateful for the experience.  This was a special day, in a way that is difficult to put into words.  I felt so totally connected to my food, Dorsey, Susan, Lola, Cecilia and Mike, who I shared this day and this experience with.   Again, it is hard to explain.

We each were given an unexpected gift of half a chicken, upon our departure.  Tonight, as I ate my roasted chicken, I felt grateful again, connected again and so very fortunate that we have food available to us, through our amazing local farmers,  that does not devalue the life of the food animal, but respects it.   Food really is love.

I’m a compulsive girl, and I readily admit this.  I embraced my new found canning knowledge with verve and gusto, and canned everything in site, with little idea how much canned goodness I could  use and without plans for my well stocked larder.  (I’m obsessed with the word “larder”)

Just part of my stash

For some strange reason, I felt as if I had to wait until winter to start using some of the canned stuff, as if I’m a squirrel, or something.  Finally, with the colder weather, my inner hoarder has allowed me to start breaking out the canned foods, and I’m working my way through the pantry.

I’ ve been able to put a dent in that which I “put up.”  As I type this, there is a slow cooker filled with Rancho Gordo beans, seasoned with a pint of my Escabeche, or pickled serranos, onions, carrots, garlic and bay.  This will impart heat and flavor to the beans which will be paired with Dai Due Wild Boar sausages for dinner.

Escabeche

The pickled cucumbers have made a good side for BBQ, and also go very well chopped up in egg salad.  The pickled jalapeno and serrano peppers, certainly are a staple and get used in a wide variety of things.  Today, I made corn muffins with the cornmeal I got from Homestead Heritage, and added lots of chopped pickled peppers.

The Salsa Verde, which I canned obsessively with the tomatillos from Springdale Farm has formed the sauce for Chilaquiles, a Mexican dish using chicken, fried corn tortillas and cheese (sometimes with egg as well.)

Charred Salsa Verde

The Salsa Verde also made its way into chicken filling for tamales recently.  The other tamale filling, was Chipotles in Adobo, which I mixed into shredded pork.  The Chipotles have become my very favorite food to preserve and combined with Richardson Farms Pork roast, was perhaps one of the favorite things I’ve ever made.

Chipotles in Adobo

Many of the jams and marmalades I made this Fall were for Christmas gifts, and many of those have found their way into other pantries.  I have discovered that you can make a really delicious cocktail, from a spoonful of jam, a splash of Vodka and a bit of Topo Chico.   The sweet preserves are genius for topping a party brie, or hard cheese as well.

Pear Preserves

I have yet to make a dent in the tomatoes I canned from my garden and local farms, but I’m focusing my attention on those next.  I’d really like to eat what I’ve canned within a year or close to it, from its canning date, so I have another few months.  There is quite a lot.

Not even close to all of it

I shall continue to eat my way through what I’ve canned, pickled and preserved not only because it is delicious, but so that I can make room for more.

We are entering a busy planting season now, as it is time to plant Artichokes, Asparagus, Greens, Lettuces, Onions, Radishes and Spinach.

From mid January – February, we will plant Beans, Beets, Broccoli, Brussels Sprouts, Cabbge, Carrots, Cauliflower, Chard, Collards, Kale, Kohlrabi, Leeks, Lettuce, Mustard, Potatoes, Spinach and Turnips.

The tricky thing here is to manage your space requirements with the Spring planting season quickly approaching.  You don’t want to fill your future tomato space with slow growing onions in mid-February, so read your seed packets, plant the above early and start looking forward to the Spring garden.

Somehow the brutal Summer is gone from my memory, and my mind is constantly filled with memories of the best Spring tomato garden I’ve ever had.  I started seeds indoors early, and took a risk of frost and set the transplants in the garden early, and that, along with heavily amended soil, paid off.

I currently have 3 beds filled with onions, leeks and garlic, to be harvested in time for the later Spring/Summer vegetables like Peppers, Squash, Watermelons and Cucumbers.  My favorite tomato bed is partially occupied with onions that I’ll harvest late February as Spring onions.  I’ve just reseeded for lettuce which will be harvested all throughout February.  The remaining broccoli will be harvested in the coming 3 weeks and allowed to rest until tomato time.  The two strawberry beds will host their strawberries through Spring.

I have ordered Basil, Cilantro, Dill, Slenderette Bush Beans, Casino Corn, Lemon Cucumber, Slicer Cucumber, Rainbow Sherbet Watermelon, Sugar Snap Peas, Snow Peas, Tomatillos and a Pepper blend from Renees Garden Seeds.  www.reneesgarden.com

I ordered Ace 55, Aunt Ginny’s Purple Heirloom Tomato, Beefsteak Heirloom, Black Cherry, Black Krim, Cherokee Chocolate and Cherokee Purple Tomato Seeds from Tomatofest. www.tomatofest.com  I intend to start the tomatoes from seed indoors around the 20th of January.  As I do every year, I’ll pick up tomato and pepper transplants throughout the season at the Sunshine Community Garden Plant sale (first Saturday in March), and at nurseries around town.  I never rely on my early planted seeds only.

That’s my plan. I’d love to hear yours!

Susan had endeavored to locate non-GMO corn for the masa, and found Masa Harina at Wheatsville, made by Bob’s Red Mill.  She made two different masas, (something I’ve yet to make), one using lard from Richardson Farms, and one using non-hydrogenated vegetable shortening.  She added ground annatto seeds to the vegetarian version, for flavor, color and so that we could keep them apart.

For my fillings, I cubed a Richardson Farms Pork roast, seared it, and cooked it in the oven with onions and garlic for two and a half hours until it was fork tender.

 I then chopped three half pint jars of the chipotle in adobo that I had canned at Springdale Farm a couple months ago.  http://austinurbangardens.wordpress.com/2011/08/28/canning-on-the-farm-chipotles-in-adobo-at-springdale-farm/

 I mixed it into the pork and the result was fabulous, slightly sweet, hot tender pork with loads of flavor.

For my second filling, I cubed a Dewberry Hills Farm chicken mixed in some Salsa Verde, which I had canned while tomatillos were in season.

Once we got all set up, with our soaked husks, fillings and bowls of masa, we began assembling the tamales.  Susan’s masa was perfect, easy to spread and still light and fluffy like frosting.  

 We made ties for the tamales by tearing strips off of the husks, and tied them on the bottom only.  Once we had enough to fill my double steamer, we did so, in two layers, and continued assembling while the first batches steamed, which took longer than the second round, which we did in only a single layer. 

The end result of a long day of assembling tamales, was around 7 dozen, including the chipotle pork, tomatillo chicken, and Susan’s vegetarian.  It was a great way to spend a day with friends, with a delicious result.   And, my freezer is full of tamales!

Next year, I will learn to make the masa, so I can know the whole process. 

This past year there were more food recalls than ever before, it seems;  Salmonella in eggs, tons upon tons of tainted beef, deadly cantaloupes, watermelons exploding in China from being injected with growth hormone.  I was thankful each time that I didn’t have to check sku numbers on my egg cartons, or dates and origins on my beef or chicken.  I read an article just last week about GMO corn causing cancer in rats.   Duh.  If we keep modifying our food, it is no wonder our bodies can’t recognize it, but I’m not going to preach.

My one big foray into the grocery store this year was unpleasant and I don’t wish to repeat it.  I wrote about the experience here http://bit.ly/w3vjpb.  In contrast to that experience, my weekly food shopping at local farmer’s markets and our fabulous farms is more about community than shopping.  I’ve come to know the people behind my food sources, the farmers and local food artisans, and in one Saturday of shopping, I usually give and receive lots of hugs, catch up with family stories, (and sometimes a little farmer’s market gossip), play frisbee with my favorite farm dog.  That just doesn’t happen at the grocery store.

Fortunately, more and more restaurants are sourcing from local farms.  If you are interested, just ask, and those who are really sourcing locally will tell you where they got what.  Unfortunately, as the local movement gains more of a foothold, more and more restaurants are using some catchwords to make us think they are sourcing locally, but they aren’t.    Again, just ask – the ones who aren’t being honest need to be called out.

This past year, thanks to an abundant garden, I took several classes and learned to can.  It started with tomatoes, and went on to canning  everything I could get my hands on. http://bit.ly/tOZOjG

Once that obsession took hold, and the horrible summer heat and drought drove me inside, I turned to fruit and started making jam.  http://bit.ly/rGQfmQ  (I order organic cane sugar in bulk from Amazon)

So, while my first “No Grocery Store” year was about figuring out how to make do with what I could get at the farmer’s market, the second year was more about preserving what I could, from season to season.  My pantry (and now the overflow pantry as well) is filled with just about everything I need to make good food year round.

Well Stocked Pantry

So, moving forward into my third year of  “No Grocery Store,” I’m hoping to continue being a better gardener, cook and preserver.  The food sourcing is not a challenge, as our markets have expanded and grown and there is more local food than ever.  My newest project will be to start making my own sausages, and I’m looking forward to that.  I’d also like to try making bacon again, now that my favorite source of bacon, Kocurek Family Artisinal Charcuterie, is no more.  They were a huge part of the last two years of my life and they will be missed.  I wish Lee and Larry the very best in their new endeavors.  It was a good run, and I learned a lot about charcuterie from them both.

Here are a couple of things worth watching, if you are interested in our food system.  Happy New Year!

http://christianremde.typepad.com/12filmsproject/2011/11/the-november-film-local.html

The drought took a toll on Thunder Heart’s herd and there was little to no bison to be sold for several months this year, and I missed them at the farmer’s markets.  About a month ago, while shopping at the Springdale Farm farmstand, I saw a flier for Thunder Heart Bison Ranch to Trailer, and was very excited to try it.

Last week I stopped by the trailer at 1120 W. 5th Street and ordered a bison burger with sweet potato fries.  I didn’t have my camera with me, so I ordered it to go.  The burger was dressed with fresh lettuce, tomato and spring onions, from a local farm and served in a bun from Sweetish Hill.

Thunder Heart Bison Burger

The burger was very substantial, yet it was so delicious I ate the whole thing.  I’m going to try it again before declaring it my favorite burger in Austin, but I’m pretty sure that title will stand, it was that good.  I think the sweet potato fries steamed a bit in the bag on the way home, so I’ll give those a try again the spot to be completely fair.

I have also had the Thunder Heart Chili, last night, in fact with Gardener’s Feast tamales, and also on the Urban Farm Tour a couple of weeks ago.  The chili is spicy and meaty and really good, no beans, of course.  It is available at the SFC Farmer’s Market, frozen by the quart, as well.

Other menu offerings at the trailer are Coffee Braised Short Ribs, Oxtail Pho, Soft Bison Tacos, Tequila Tacos and Asian Steak Salad.  I want to try them all.

There are some parking spots available for the trailer, and behind it, hidden from view from the street is a covered patio with tables.  There was a musician strumming guitar there this week when I stopped by for lunch.

For more information on Thunder Heart Bison Ranch to Trailer, check out their Facebook page, www.facebook.com/thethunderhearttrailer

Mark, who heads up Brazos Valley Cheese, was awaiting our arrival and had generously set aside much of his day to give us a comprehensive tour.  We began in the cheese making facility, where we first slipped out of our shoes, and into white Crocs, to avoid bringing any outside bacteria into the cheese making room.

Crocs for Cleanliness

The facility in which the cheeses are made, is not large, utilizing just one really big container.  When we arrived in early afternoon, raw milk, which is collected from three small local dairies, had already been poured in, and was in the process of separating the curds from they whey.  Once the curds have properly formed, they are scooped out into separate containers, and the whey is drained into outside bladders, where it is available for local farmers to pick up to feed their animals or crops.

Separating the curds

The cheese is then portioned into containers, in this picture, brie, where it is drained further.

Brie draining

The harder cheeses will spend some time under a press, which creates their firmer texture.  The blue cheeses, will have holes created throughout, into which bacteria will enter and turn the bluish color, indicative of that cheese.  Most of the brie is stored in this facility, where it will age a short period of time, compared to the cheeses in the caves.

Shelves of Gouda

This Eden was beautiful

Next we headed over the the underground cave, where we again adorned protective crocs.  Mark and the cheese makers had visited Vermont, and several notable caves for ideas before constructing this cave.

Clothbound Cheddar in the Cave

Cheese Filled Shelves and one dim light

Mark told an interesting story about a cheese that had gone in a wrong flavor direction, due to a mistake.  In order to save the costly product, he added  Vanilla, Sorghum and Cinnamon to the cheese, thus creating the now popular Van Sormon, a firm aromatic cheese, which is still made.

Once back above ground, Mark drove us to a viewing spot for the vast 500 acre property, bordering the Brazos River, on which 45 families live, each contributing something different to the community.

Currently fallow farmland

Next, we were graciously treated to a lovely lunch in the Homestead Cafe.  The food was fresh and delicious, and the Cafe hosted a refrigerated cabinet full of the cheeses we had just learned about, for purchase.  But, we had much more to tour, before we shopped.

The next facility we visited, housed the gristmill, a very old piece of equipment, brought from New Jersey years ago.  This old, water wheel operated gristmill is used to grind wheat, corn, rice and other grains, which are sold in their maiden form and in the form of mixes for scones, pancakes, cookies, cornbread and the like.  The mill is so old, the cogs in the turning wheel portion of the equipment, are actually made from corncobs at least a century old.

Gristmill

Water Power

One of the operations of Homestead Heritage is barn relocating and rebuilding.  All of the buildings on this facility are built from reclaimed lumber, and in many cases, very old lumber.

In that afternoon, we also visited the woodworking shop, where freshly milled lumber was being crafted into bookcases, Windsor chairs, jewelry boxes and other assorted furniture.

Woodworking shop

We also visited the ceramic/pottery building where gorgeous pottery was being formed, glazed and fired onsite.

Gorgeous pottery

By this time, my brain was full of information and not fully processing any more, but we also visited the facility that housed the looms where ladies were peacefully weaving chenille throws, with a concentrated rhythm that I found mesmerizing and peaceful.  We got to see linen in its formative process from soaked reeds to the final product.  The fabrics made by hand here were texturally beautiful and just fabulous.

Loom

Next we took refuge from the rain in the blacksmith shop, where an apprentice was firing nails over a hot flame, and his teacher was matching a spur for a customer who had lost one.  The majority of the blacksmith shop is to serve the public outside of the community, he said.

It was time for us to conclude our day and get on the road back to Austin.  We revisited the Cafe to purchase cheeses, and the main store for woven fabric products, hand carved spoons, and some of the gristmill products.  We returned to the gristmill for a more complete array of products, including their gluten free mixes.

It was an amazing and very informative day at Homestead Heritage and I would highly recommend the experience to anyone interested in sustainable living.  The property is gorgeous and the experience is worth the drive from Austin for sure.

Brazos Valley Cheese has just had a remarkable showing at the American Cheese Society’s big competition, which was held in Montreal this year.  They won 1st place in the brie category for their Eden, a Brie with a line of vegetable ash in the center and wrapped in fig leaves, a Second place for their plain Brie and third place in the bandaged-wrapped Cheddar category for their cheddar.  Their cheese maker Rebeccah Durkin should be very proud of their accomplishments in such a short time.  All of their cheeses are available onsite, and can also be found on the menus at Austin area restaurants and at Antonelli’s Cheese Shop.

If all this wasn’t enough, the facility offers classes in cheese making, as well as just about everything else they do.   I would highly recommend the experience of spending a day on this sustainable, homesteading farm.  The people are gracious and lovely and the place is filled with lessons from the past and hopefully, for the future.

www.homesteadheritage.com

 

First, I ate grapefruit to get the taste of it before proceeding.  Then, doubling the recipe to use all of my grapefruits before the (now upon us, freeze), I put the fruit into boil.

Boiling Grapefruit

After two hours, they became very soft.  I went out to run errands while they cooled.

Boiled Grapefruit

Once cooled, I started slicing and chopping the fruit, and at first forgetting to remove the seeds.

Chopping the softened fruit

I was excited by the color, and had an inkling of an idea that it was going to turn out pretty.  I chopped the pieces smaller than I did with my orange marmalade, based on comments by the family members I tested it on.  These were softer from the boiling as well.  Once chopped, it all went into a pan with the organic sugar and lemon juice, and heated on low until the sugar dissolved.  Once the sugar was dissolved, I turned up the heat and simmered until it passed the frozen spoon test.

Simmered down

I took Nigella’s suggestion, and put in a glug of rum, for good measure.  Then I put the mixture into steralized, hot jars, then into a waterbath for 10 minutes.  The end result is such a gorgeous color, I couldn’t be happier.

Ruby Red Grapefruit Marmalade

The marmalade set up appropriately, and when tested the following day on a cracker with some Full Quiver Neufchatel, it was delicious.  I think the boiling eliminated a lot of the bitterness from the peel, and I will use this method now on for all of my citrus marmalades.

G and S Groves has oranges, grapefruits, lemons and limes for sale now.  You can order the oranges and grapefruits through www.jbgorganic.com for pick up at just about all of the farmer’s markets and at the farm.  Get your marmalade on!